Born and raised in the Jura to a family of winemakers and cheesemongers, Stéphane Meyer’s connection to grapes began early, distilling brandy with his grandfather at age 12. Though he studied oenology for seven years and was expected to take over the family vineyards, philosophical disagreements about viticulture and winemaking led him down a different path. Much of his life has instead been spent as a forager of wild edible plants, supplying everyone from Michelin-starred chefs to homeopathic pharmaceutical companies. His deep, almost mystical relationship with plants and land earned him the nickname “The Druid of Paris,” a nod to the learned and spiritual figures of ancient Gaul.
A firm believer in reconnecting food and drink with their agricultural origins, Stéphane has often clashed with modern wine and spirits production. His philosophy aligns more closely with pre–French Revolution farming practices, emphasizing natural balance over intervention. After leaving Paris and returning to the Jura, he purchased two tiny plots totaling one hectare in the famed La Vigne aux Dames lieu-dit in Château-Chalon. On the larger 0.7-hectare parcel, he produces Udumbara, a 100% Savagnin wine made according to his exacting principles.
In the vineyard, Stéphane “va vers le vivant,” cutting grasses in June and leaving the plant matter to nourish the soil, while adding woodchips to foster insect life and soil health. Grapes are harvested entirely by hand, then chilled in a refrigerated truck to recreate the cooler harvest conditions common before 1970. After being hand-destemmed and pressed in a traditional wood-and-stone press beneath his home, the juice ferments with ambient yeast at low temperatures for three to six months, producing wines he finds more vibrant and expressive. Aging takes place in a mix of new and used oak, partially sous voile, with oxidation kept secondary to freshness, structure, and aromatic clarity.